The Tattooed Women of Kalinga

First time ko nalaman ang tungkol sa Kalinga women when I've watched Kara David's documentary about them last year when I was still in Saudi. I was fascinated with these women and the tribal art of tattooing sa katawan nila. According to them the tatoo symbolizze beauty to the women, the more tatoo you have the beautiful you are.

Sila rin ang dahilan kaya i want to join Dong with his Kalinga trip, yun lang the tribe's houses was located far from Luplupa! It's a 2 hour drive from our place and since it was Holy Friday walang byahe papunta sa place na yon =(.

Though we didn't got a chance to visit their place, I'm having a great time naman chilling out in Luplupa and bonding time with my friends. Then I was suprised when Dong came one afternoon smiling and he told me there are tatooed women living in Luplupa! Then without missing a beat, we hurriedly went to the place where this two women lived.

Funny thing is these women lived just outside our place! They are one of the old people living in Luplupa, and there are two of them so me and Dong have our own Mona Lisa.




According to Kara David, only the old women have this tatoo, the younger ones doesn't want it because 1). it hurts 2). they don't fnd it pretty. Though I think the art Kalinga tattoo is one tribal culture that they should be proud of. The intricate design is so good, it's much better than the tattoo here in the city. Also the ink of the tattoo or the skin doesn't turn green once they grow old, unlike the tattoo here in the city (i've seen so many tattoo in Bilibid prison, one thing that is common to the prisoner is the greenish skin tone on the part of the tattoo).



Most of the tattoo are mostly located in the shoulder and arms of the women. Can't imagine the pain they have to ordeal just to become beautiful.



I'd like to thank the old lady of Luplupa for allowing me to take pictures of her and showing me her tattoo. We promised (me and Dong) to give the hard copy of the pictures to them also. I just hope that the culture of tattooing would still continue for more years to come.

The Tinglayan Way of Life Experience

Hola Tinglayan!

The municipality of Tinglayan, Kalinga Province is a 3 hour drive from the capital Bontoc Mountain Province. You’ve known you arrived in Tinglayan because they are the second town you’ll be after you’ve left Bontoc. From the road you’ll get a chance to see barangay Luplupa (which is on the other mountain side, separated by the mighty Chico River) and the bus stopped at barangay Poblacion which is the urbanized part of the Tinglayan. Here in Poblacion the main church, the mayor’s office, schools, eatery and inns are mostly located. Though the place seemed to be nice and accessible, we opted to stay at the Inn we’ve seen from the road. The name of the Inn is hugely painted on their roof and since we’ve been sitting on the top of the jeepney it’s very easy for us to see it.

Bridge's mighty foundation

The Long Rickety bridge

From Poblacion, we’ve walked for about 20 minutes and we need to pass by the rickety bridge before reaching the Luplupa River Side Inn (+639177501204, Php 250 per night exclusive of food) which to our surprised was owned by a German national and his Filipina wife. Mr. Otmar Holz is a well known philanthropist in Luplupa, having sent many students to schools and colleges by providing them scholarship and also donating rice to the townsfolk every so often. Actually on our last day at Luplupa, they have a scheduled rice distribution to the barangay but we didn’t wait for it because the activity will be done in the afternoon while our trip to Tabuk was in the morning. Mr. Holz and his wife stays at Luplupa from December to May (non-rainy season in the Phils) then return again to Germany for the rest of the year (non-rainy season in the Germany).

Willkommen!

From left to right: Rose, Olive, Floro, Mrs. Holz, Mr. Holz and Ben (the Labrador)

Luplupa Inn's simple garden

Olive with the map of Tinglayan

Where are we??

Another surprise was that to see foreigners in the middle of Luplupa village. Mind you the place is not that actually a tourist spot. The major tourist attraction of the place is the tattooed women of Kalinga but they live far from Luplupa. Anyhow we’ve find 2 Norwegian student Peter and Orjam (pronounce Orr-yam) who ate a wild boar in the forest of Kalinga and sleep in the cave as well, a Australian travel writer who had the tribal tattoo of Kalinga in his foot, and a French guy who is a friend of Otmar (I think).

Hello there, from Norway!

Having said our pleasantries to the people of Luplupa Inn and freshen up a bit, we decided to roam around the village and familiarize with it. One thing that would strike you of the place is the presence of black pigs on the street. Yes and I mean lot’s of them. BUT before you cringe on the idea about pigs roaming around, in very fairness to them they are 1). Very clean and have no foul smell, unlike the pink pigs we see on pigpens 2). They are courteous because they know how to KEEP RIGHT when walking on the street. 3). they don’t bite/attack as long as you don’t provoke them and 4). I think piglets are as cute as puppies.

Buhay baboy

Looking around the area I’ve noticed that 1). Most of them have satellite cable 2). Their favorite TV show is Mutya 3). They bury their dead inside their property 4) water is abundant; water pipes have no faucet 5). All of them are very nice and friendly. They have their own elementary school with a mini plaza where the gigantic acacia trees, rice terraces paddies, numerous mini-water falls, and a lot of fireflies at night according to Floro (who have seen the night creatures swarming over the acacia tree).

The Mighty Accacia trees

Every drop counts!

WELCOME!

" Hindi po ako scarecrow!"

Green, Green Palay

Posing Time!

But I think the person you should meet in Tinglayan is none other than Mr. Victor Baculi (insert applause here)!! He’s the braid haired and well respected leader in Tinglayan. He is so well known his name is included in Lonely Planet’s guide to the Philippines. He’s actually related Mr. Holz’s wife and his house is just outside the Luplupa Inn. According to him he was the longest serving barangay captain of Luplupa (29 years I think) and he already went to Germany for a visit. What I like about Mr. Baculi is his stories about Tinglayan and his life and also his funny (yet sometimes censored) jokes! This guy is so funny!

Meet Mr. Baculi!

Joke time with Floro and Mang Victor

During our stay in Tinglayan it made me realize how it’s possible to live in a simple life naman pala, away from the hustle and bustle of the city, the rat race in the office, and the pollution and temptation the city has to offer. We can actually live a simple life, just like the people in Tinglayan, and be happy about it. Yes, happiness can be seen in the simplest way =).

The Road to happiness is here
Simply Breathtaking

Yes their place has a cerratic ell phone signal, no internet access, no malls to shop, no clubs for party scene but they do have clean and pure river and waterfalls, green rice paddies, lush rainforest with wild animals and birds, loads of fireflies at night, and peace and serenity in the midst of it. I think im ok with that kind of set-up, thank you very much.

Next to our adventure, the Mighty Chico River. Abangan =).

Now I had the Ride of my life!

Floro: Tara dun tayo sa taas ng jeep sumakay mamaya.
Me: Ok lang, kaso safe ba dun?
Floro: May bata nga na nakasakay sa taas eh.
Me: Hmmm. (sabagay, if there’s a kid on top of the jeepney safe na siguro yun!)

The Good News: riding on top of the jeepney for the Bontoc-Tinglayan trip was a good decision. You’ve get to see the majestic terrain of the Cordillera right in front of you. The Bad news: I forgot to apply face sunblock! LoL! Imagine on top of the jeepney @ 1:00PM till 3:00PM in the middle of summer season with no face protection, unlike Floro who has his shirt wrapped around his face or Dong who has a scarf while I didn’t have any is totally the stupidest decision I made on that day LoL! (Mental note to self: Don’t forget to apply/cover anything on your face if you’re riding on top of a vehicle on a hot summer afternoon).

After the joyful Banawe-Bontoc trip, we had our lunch at one of the few open eatery in Bontoc. Funny how I ordered papaitan which I just eaten on the night before we traveled to Banawe (and I must admit my mother’s version of papaitan is still the best!). After the quick meal we hurriedly positioned ourselves to the top jeepney to Tinglayan (which actually only have 1 trip per day according to the townspeople). All the boys were on top while the girls are inside the jeep (and after a couple of minutes they fell into sleep).

Floro all covered-up!

Downtown Bontoc

Downtown Bontoc, view from the top of the jeep

Based on my conversation with Floro and seeing the kid sitting lazily on top of the jeep so I thought this trip would be a breeze.

Boy, I was Wrong!

I thought the road was paved or as wide as the Banawe-Bontoc road. I was wrong again! Almost 40% of the trip we passed through a dirt road courtesy of the landslide!

OMG! Dirt road + On top of the jeepney + deep ravine = Praying!

My sitting position is not also comfortable, thank god for squat exercise and tight grip control at the gym, I manage to endure the pain during the whole trip =D.

I remember one particular bumpy ride where were on the single lane, dirt road, on its side is a very deep ravine which really shook the hell out of me! It was so rugged the jeep literally moves sideways a little more on the side of the ravine. Scary noh?!


(When we’re in Tinglayan, the caretaker of the Inn told us that the driver knows the road so well they haven’t got a major accident like falling into cliff or river and people died. Only minor accident they encounter like overturned jeepneys and flat tire and stuff like that. People trust their drivers so well they don’t worry about accidents like that)

River deep, mountain High!

Besides the scary thought of me falling on the jeep or the bus roll over to the ravine, the trip was actually awesome! The view of the mountain, the mighty Chico River below, the blue skies, the rice terraces, the rickety bridges, and the green and brown mountain landscape was truly breath taking. Sadly I didn’t take more precise or dramatic picture of this views coz I was holding on for my dear life while the jeep we’re moving! LoL! Luckily Dong got a better seating position and took a couple of pictures while we are on the road.


Truly it was a wonderful experience. Will I do it again? Why not, given a chance!

Onto our next adventure..The Tinglayan Immersion experience.